Most homebuyers frame the 15-year vs. 30-year mortgage question as a rate question. It isn’t. It’s a strategy question — one that touches your monthly cash flow, your long-term wealth-building plan, your tax situation, and how long you realistically expect to stay in the home.
The total cost difference between these two terms is real and significant. On a $400,000 loan, the gap in total interest between a 15-year and a 30-year can exceed $300,000 — but the “right” answer depends entirely on your financial picture, not on which term sounds more disciplined. A 15-year mortgage isn’t inherently smarter. A 30-year isn’t inherently wasteful. Both are tools, and like any tool, the value depends on how well it fits the job.
This article walks through seven decision-making strategies that help you evaluate the true cost difference in 2026 — not just the interest total, but the opportunity cost of the higher payment, the break-even math, and the program-fit considerations that most calculators ignore. Whether you’re a first-time buyer weighing affordability, a move-up buyer considering a jumbo loan above the 2026 FHFA conforming limit of $806,500, or a homeowner exploring a refinance, these frameworks will help you make a term decision you can defend with actual numbers.
This isn’t a rate-shopping guide. It’s the kind of consultative framework a boutique mortgage strategist walks through with you — real trade-offs, honest math, and a clear process for making the call with confidence. Duane Buziak, NMLS #1110647, has structured this guide around the same analysis he runs with clients in Virginia, Florida, Tennessee, Georgia, and Washington, DC — where term structure is one of the most consequential decisions in the entire mortgage process.
Table of Contents
1. Run the Total Interest Math First — Then Question It
2. Calculate Your Real Break-Even on the Higher Payment
3. Match Term Length to Your Actual Time Horizon
4. Use the Payment Difference as a Wealth-Building Variable
5. Evaluate Program Fit Before Committing to a Term
6. Factor In the Refinance Option — The 30-Year Isn’t Permanent
7. Build Your Decision with a Strategy Checklist, Not a Calculator Alone
1. Run the Total Interest Math First — Then Question It
The Challenge It Solves
Most people open a mortgage calculator, see the interest total for a 30-year loan, and immediately conclude that a 15-year is the obvious winner. That reaction is understandable — the numbers look dramatic. But the raw interest total is a starting point for analysis, not a verdict. Treating it as a verdict leads to decisions that look good on a spreadsheet and feel wrong in real life.
The Strategy Explained
Let’s work through a concrete scenario. On a $400,000 loan at 6.00% fixed for 15 years, your monthly principal and interest payment is approximately $3,375. Total payments over 180 months come to roughly $607,500, meaning you pay approximately $207,500 in interest over the life of the loan.
On the same $400,000 at 6.50% fixed for 30 years — reflecting the typical rate spread between terms — your monthly payment drops to approximately $2,528. Total payments over 360 months come to roughly $910,080, with approximately $510,080 in total interest paid.
The headline numbers: a monthly payment delta of roughly $847, and a total interest difference of approximately $302,580 over the full loan life. These figures are illustrative for strategy discussion; actual rates vary and should not be read as current quotes.
That $302,580 gap is real. But here’s the question that changes everything: does it account for what you do with the $847 per month you’re not paying on the 30-year? Does it account for whether you’ll actually keep this loan for 30 years? Does it factor in your program eligibility, your income structure, or your retirement timeline? The math is the starting point — the strategy is everything that comes after it.
Duane Buziak, NMLS #1110647 | Coast2Coast Mortgage LLC, NMLS #376205 | Licensed in VA, FL, TN, GA, DC | (804) 212-8663
Implementation Steps
1. Run the full amortization on both terms using your actual loan amount — not a round number — so the figures are personally relevant.
2. Note the monthly payment delta and the total interest difference as two separate data points.
3. Write down three assumptions embedded in those numbers (30-year hold, no extra payments, no refinance) and ask whether each assumption is realistic for your situation.
Pro Tips
The interest total on a 30-year assumes you make every scheduled payment for 360 months with no changes. Very few borrowers do. Before letting that number drive your decision, estimate your actual likely hold period — that single variable reshapes the entire comparison.
2. Calculate Your Real Break-Even on the Higher Payment
The Challenge It Solves
Choosing a 15-year mortgage means committing to a payment that is roughly $847 per month higher than the 30-year alternative in our scenario. That’s not a small number. It’s a car payment, a childcare bill, a meaningful contribution to a retirement account. Before you commit to that cash flow obligation, you need to know exactly when — and whether — the interest savings justify the sacrifice.
The Strategy Explained
Think of break-even analysis for term selection the same way you’d think about break-even for paying mortgage points. You’re spending more money upfront (in the form of higher monthly payments) in exchange for a long-term payoff. The question is: how long does it take for the savings to exceed the cost?
In our scenario, the 15-year borrower pays approximately $847 more per month than the 30-year borrower. Over the first 12 months, that’s roughly $10,164 in additional cash flow committed. Over 5 years, it’s approximately $50,820. The interest savings only materialize over the full loan life — and they only materialize if you keep the loan long enough to realize them.
Here’s where the stay-duration variable becomes critical. Many homeowners sell or refinance well before a 30-year term concludes, according to general patterns observed across the industry. If you sell or refinance in year 7, you’ve paid the higher 15-year payment for 84 months without capturing the full interest savings that justified it. In that scenario, the 30-year borrower who deployed the payment difference intentionally may come out ahead on total outlay.
The payment difference also carries its own earning potential if deployed intentionally. The $847 per month that a 30-year borrower doesn’t owe to the mortgage can be redirected toward liquid savings, retirement contributions, or other investments — each with its own return profile. This doesn’t automatically make the 30-year the winner, but it means the 15-year’s interest savings need to be weighed against the opportunity cost of that locked-up cash flow.
Implementation Steps
1. Estimate your realistic stay duration — not how long you hope to stay, but how long your life plan (job stability, family size, career trajectory) suggests you will stay.
2. Calculate how much extra cash you’ll have committed to the 15-year payment by the time you expect to sell or refinance.
3. Compare that committed cash to the interest savings you would have accumulated by the same date — the point where savings exceed committed cash is your break-even.
Pro Tips
If your estimated stay duration is under seven years, run the 30-year scenario first and work backward. The burden of proof shifts — you need a compelling reason to take on the higher payment, not a compelling reason to avoid it.
3. Match Term Length to Your Actual Time Horizon
The Challenge It Solves
Buyers often choose a mortgage term based on how they feel about debt, not how long they’ll realistically hold the loan. Someone who plans to upsize in five years takes on a 15-year mortgage because it “feels responsible” — and ends up paying the higher payment for a period too short to capture the interest savings that justified it. Life-stage planning is not a soft consideration. It’s a hard variable in the cost equation.
The Strategy Explained
Your time horizon has two dimensions: how long you’ll keep this specific home, and how long you’ll keep this specific loan. They’re not the same thing. A homeowner who keeps the property for 20 years but refinances twice has effectively held three different loans — none of which ran to their original term.
Consider how life-stage planning intersects with term selection. A buyer in their early 40s purchasing a primary residence with a 15-year mortgage could be mortgage-free by their late 50s — well ahead of retirement. That’s a powerful wealth-building outcome if the cash flow is manageable. The same 15-year mortgage on a buyer in their early 30s who plans to move up in five years is a different story entirely.
Retirement timeline is one of the most underused inputs in term analysis. If you’re 52 and want to retire at 65, a 15-year mortgage aligns your payoff with your retirement date. A 30-year mortgage runs to age 82 — which may be fine if you plan to refinance or sell, but creates a different cash flow picture in retirement if you don’t. Running both scenarios against your retirement income projection is a legitimate strategic exercise, not just a mortgage calculation.
Income trajectory matters too. A buyer whose income is expected to grow significantly over the next five years might choose a 30-year now for breathing room, with the intention of making extra principal payments as income increases. That’s a defensible strategy — but it requires discipline and a clear plan, not just good intentions.
Implementation Steps
1. Write down your realistic stay duration for this specific property, then separately note how long you expect to keep this specific loan without refinancing.
2. Map your mortgage payoff date against your retirement target date under both term scenarios.
3. Identify any major life events in your planning horizon (income change, family expansion, relocation) that would affect your ability to sustain the 15-year payment.
Pro Tips
The most common planning error is choosing a term based on current income without stress-testing it against a realistic income disruption scenario. Ask yourself: if my income dropped 20% for 12 months, could I still make the 15-year payment without liquidating assets? If the answer is no, the 30-year deserves serious consideration regardless of the interest math.
4. Use the Payment Difference as a Wealth-Building Variable
The Challenge It Solves
The 15-year vs. 30-year debate often gets framed as “pay less interest” vs. “keep more cash” — as if one is obviously virtuous and the other is obviously wasteful. That framing misses the real question: what happens to the $847 per month that a 30-year borrower doesn’t owe the mortgage? If the answer is “it gets spent on lifestyle,” the 15-year probably wins. If the answer is “it gets deployed intentionally,” the comparison becomes genuinely nuanced.
The Strategy Explained
Forced equity and liquid wealth are two different things, and they serve different financial purposes. The 15-year mortgage creates forced equity — you’re building home equity faster because the amortization schedule is compressed. That equity is real wealth, but it’s illiquid. You can’t spend home equity without selling the home, taking a cash-out refinance, or opening a home equity line of credit.
The 30-year mortgage, by contrast, gives you the option to build liquid wealth with the payment difference. The $847 per month could go into a taxable brokerage account, a Roth IRA, a health savings account, a business investment, or an emergency reserve — each with different liquidity and return characteristics. The payment difference has its own earning potential if deployed intentionally.
This is not an argument for the 30-year. It’s an argument for clarity about what you’ll actually do with the payment difference. If you don’t have a specific, committed plan for those dollars, the 15-year’s forced equity may be the more reliable wealth-building mechanism for your situation — because it removes the decision from the equation entirely.
The liquidity argument also has a risk dimension worth naming. Homeowners who are heavily equity-rich but cash-poor face real challenges during income disruptions. A large home equity position doesn’t pay the electric bill. Maintaining liquid reserves alongside your mortgage payment is a risk management consideration, not just an investment consideration.
Implementation Steps
1. Write down specifically where the $847 monthly payment difference would go if you chose the 30-year — not in general terms, but with a specific account and purpose.
2. Evaluate your current liquid reserve position: do you have three to six months of expenses accessible without touching home equity?
3. Assess whether your income is stable enough that forced equity (15-year) is a reasonable strategy, or whether income variability makes liquidity more valuable than accelerated paydown.
Pro Tips
High-income borrowers with stable employment and strong liquid reserves often find the 15-year compelling because they can absorb the payment without liquidity risk. Self-employed borrowers or those with variable income frequently find the 30-year more defensible — not because they’re less financially disciplined, but because their cash flow profile makes the flexibility genuinely valuable.
5. Evaluate Program Fit Before Committing to a Term
The Challenge It Solves
Term selection doesn’t happen in a vacuum — it happens within a specific loan program, and not all programs offer both terms equally. Some programs are structurally limited to one term. Others have MIP, funding fee, or cash flow dynamics that make one term significantly more practical than the other. Choosing a term before evaluating program fit is like choosing a shoe size before trying on the shoe.
The Strategy Explained
Here’s a practical program-by-program breakdown of how term selection intersects with program fit. This is where the strategy conversation gets concrete.
USDA Loans: The USDA guaranteed loan program is fixed at a 30-year term only — there is no 15-year option through the standard guaranteed program (USDA Rural Development). If you’re purchasing in a USDA-eligible rural area, the term decision has already been made for you.
FHA Loans: Both 15-year and 30-year terms are available, but the MIP structure differs meaningfully. For 30-year FHA loans with LTV above 90%, annual MIP runs for the life of the loan. For 15-year FHA loans with LTV at or below 90%, MIP cancels at 11 years (HUD.gov). This creates a genuine term-strategy argument for FHA borrowers who can sustain the higher payment.
VA Loans: Both terms are available, and the VA funding fee does not change based on term selection (VA.gov). First-use with 0% down carries a 2.15% funding fee; subsequent use is 3.3%. The term decision for VA borrowers is primarily a cash flow and time-horizon question, not a program-fit constraint.
DSCR Loans: Investors using DSCR (Debt Service Coverage Ratio) financing almost always need the 30-year term for cash flow qualification. A 15-year term produces a significantly higher monthly payment, which compresses the DSCR ratio and can disqualify a property that would otherwise qualify on a 30-year. This is a program-fit argument, not a preference — the math of rental income vs. mortgage payment often makes the 30-year the only viable option.
Jumbo Loans: Loans above the 2026 conforming limit of $806,500 (or $1,209,750 in high-cost areas, per FHFA.gov) have distinct term-pricing dynamics. Jumbo lenders often price 15-year and 30-year terms differently than conforming lenders, and the spread between terms may be wider or narrower depending on the lender’s portfolio strategy. Jumbo borrowers should evaluate term pricing specifically within the jumbo market, not assume conforming spreads apply.
Self-Employed / Non-QM Borrowers: Borrowers using bank statement loans or other Non-QM programs often need the 30-year term to qualify within acceptable DTI ratios. The higher payment of a 15-year can push DTI above program thresholds even when the borrower’s income is substantial — because the qualifying income calculation differs from conventional underwriting.
The table below summarizes program fit at a glance:
Program | Best Term Fit | Primary Reason | Trade-Off
USDA Guaranteed | 30-Year Only | Program limitation — no 15-year option | No choice available; focus on rate and payment optimization
FHA | 30-Year (most buyers); 15-Year (if LTV ≤ 90%) | MIP cancellation at 11 years on 15-year with LTV ≤ 90% | Higher payment required to capture MIP savings
VA | Either term | Funding fee unchanged by term; decision is cash flow driven | 15-year saves interest; 30-year preserves monthly flexibility
DSCR / Investment | 30-Year | Lower payment preserves DSCR ratio for qualification | Slower equity build; higher total interest over life
Jumbo (above $806,500) | Evaluate both | Term pricing spread differs from conforming market | Requires lender-specific comparison, not generic spread assumptions
Self-Employed / Non-QM | 30-Year (typically) | DTI qualification often requires lower payment | Flexibility to make extra payments if income allows
Implementation Steps
1. Identify your loan program first — before running term comparisons — so you know which terms are actually available to you.
2. For FHA borrowers, calculate the total MIP cost under both terms at your specific LTV to determine whether the 15-year’s MIP structure changes the total cost comparison.
3. For DSCR borrowers, calculate your DSCR ratio under both terms to confirm whether the 15-year is even viable for qualification.
Pro Tips
Program fit is the most commonly skipped step in term analysis. Borrowers spend hours comparing 15-year and 30-year interest totals for a program that only offers one term — or for a program where the qualifying constraints make the “preferred” term unworkable. Confirm program eligibility and term availability before running the detailed cost comparison.
6. Factor In the Refinance Option — The 30-Year Isn’t Permanent
The Challenge It Solves
One of the strongest arguments for the 30-year mortgage gets overlooked in most term discussions: you can pay it off in 15 years without being contractually obligated to. Extra principal payments on a 30-year loan accelerate payoff without creating the cash flow risk of a 15-year commitment. The 30-year’s flexibility is a real feature — not a consolation prize for borrowers who can’t qualify for the 15-year payment.
The Strategy Explained
A 30-year mortgage with disciplined extra principal payments can match or approximate the payoff timeline of a 15-year without the downside risk of the higher required payment. The key word is “required.” If your income drops, your expenses spike, or a major life event disrupts your cash flow, the 30-year borrower can revert to the minimum payment without default risk. The 15-year borrower cannot reduce their required payment without refinancing.
This flexibility argument is especially relevant for borrowers with variable income — the self-employed, commission-based earners, small business owners, or anyone whose annual income swings meaningfully. The ability to pay more in strong income years and less in lean years is genuine risk management, not financial indiscipline.
Refinancing into a 15-year later is also a viable path. A borrower who starts on a 30-year and refinances into a 15-year after five years of payments has effectively customized their payoff timeline — and may refinance into a better rate environment in the process. This isn’t a guaranteed outcome, but it’s a realistic planning option that pure 15-year advocates often dismiss.
Here’s where the NoTouch Credit Pull becomes practically useful. If you’re evaluating whether a refinance into a shorter term makes sense for your current situation — or modeling what a refinance would do to your payment and total cost — you can explore those scenarios without a hard inquiry affecting your credit score. Starting with a NoTouch Credit Pull lets you run the refinance math with full picture data before committing to anything.
The refinance option also interacts with rate environment. If rates decline meaningfully from your origination rate, a refinance into a 15-year at a lower rate could produce better total cost outcomes than a 15-year originated at a higher rate today. Locking into a 15-year now forecloses some of that optionality — not entirely, but it’s a consideration worth naming.
Implementation Steps
1. Model what happens to your 30-year payoff timeline if you make one extra principal payment per year — even a modest extra payment meaningfully compresses the amortization schedule.
2. Identify the income disruption scenarios that would make the 15-year payment difficult to sustain, and assess how likely those scenarios are given your employment and income structure.
3. If you’re considering a refinance into a shorter term, use a NoTouch Credit Pull to evaluate your current credit profile and qualifying picture before engaging in a full application process.
Pro Tips
The extra payment strategy works best when the extra amount is automated and treated as non-negotiable — not as discretionary spending that gets redirected when life gets expensive. If you’re choosing a 30-year with the intention of paying it down faster, build that extra payment into your budget as a fixed line item from day one.
7. Build Your Decision with a Strategy Checklist, Not a Calculator Alone
The Challenge It Solves
Online mortgage calculators are useful for running numbers. They’re not useful for making decisions, because they don’t know your income trajectory, your program eligibility, your liquidity position, your retirement timeline, or how long you’ll actually keep the loan. Synthesizing all of the prior strategies into a coherent decision framework is the final step — and it’s the step most borrowers skip because it requires more than a few minutes on a website.
The Strategy Explained
Before choosing a term, work through this checklist. Each item corresponds to a strategy covered in this guide. If you can answer all seven questions with specific numbers and a clear rationale, you’re ready to make a term decision. If you can’t, you have a gap in your analysis — and that gap is worth addressing before you commit.
1. Have I run the full interest math on both terms using my actual loan amount, and have I identified the three assumptions embedded in those numbers?
2. Have I calculated my break-even point — the month at which the interest savings on the 15-year exceed the extra cash I’ve committed — and does it fall before my expected sell or refinance date?
3. Have I mapped my mortgage payoff date against my retirement target under both term scenarios?
4. Have I identified specifically where the payment difference would go if I chose the 30-year, and does that plan have a realistic chance of being executed?
5. Have I confirmed which terms my loan program actually offers, and have I evaluated any MIP, funding fee, or DSCR implications that affect the total cost comparison?
6. Have I stress-tested the 15-year payment against a realistic income disruption scenario, and have I evaluated the refinance option as a future path?
7. Have I spoken with a mortgage strategist — not just a calculator — about how my specific income structure, credit profile, and program fit affect the term decision?
A second natural moment to use the NoTouch Credit Pull: if you’re working through this checklist and realize you don’t have a clear picture of your current qualifying profile — your credit score, your DTI at both payment levels, or your program eligibility — that’s exactly the moment to start with a NoTouch Credit Pull. You get the full picture without a hard inquiry, which means you can run real scenarios before you’re committed to anything.
FAQ: 10 Questions on 15-Year vs. 30-Year Mortgage Strategy
Q1: How does choosing a 15-year vs. 30-year mortgage affect my debt-to-income ratio?
The higher monthly payment on a 15-year mortgage increases your housing expense, which directly raises your DTI ratio. For borrowers near the DTI ceiling for their program, this can affect qualification — or require a larger down payment to reduce the loan amount and bring the payment within acceptable limits. Always calculate DTI at both payment levels before assuming you qualify for the 15-year.
Q2: Is the mortgage interest deduction different for 15-year vs. 30-year loans?
The mortgage interest deduction applies to qualifying interest paid, regardless of term — but a 15-year loan generates significantly less interest over its life, which means the deductible amount is lower. Borrowers who itemize deductions should factor this into their after-tax cost comparison. Consult a tax advisor for guidance specific to your situation, as individual circumstances vary.
Q3: Can I get a VA loan on a 15-year term?
Yes. VA loans are available in both 15-year and 30-year terms, and the VA funding fee does not change based on which term you select. For eligible veterans and service members, the term decision is a cash flow and time-horizon question, not a program eligibility question. First-use funding fee with 0% down is 2.15%; subsequent use is 3.3%, per VA.gov.
Q4: Is a 15-year term available for DSCR investment property loans?
Technically yes, but practically it often disqualifies the property. DSCR loans qualify based on the ratio of rental income to mortgage payment. A 15-year term produces a substantially higher monthly payment, which compresses the DSCR ratio. Many investment properties that qualify easily on a 30-year term fail to meet minimum DSCR thresholds on a 15-year. Run the DSCR calculation at both payment levels before assuming either term works.
Q5: Does FHA MIP work differently on a 15-year loan?
Yes, meaningfully so. For 30-year FHA loans with LTV above 90%, annual MIP runs for the life of the loan. For 15-year FHA loans with LTV at or below 90%, MIP cancels at 11 years, per HUD.gov. This makes the 15-year term genuinely more cost-efficient for FHA borrowers who can sustain the higher payment and meet the LTV threshold.
Q6: How does the conforming loan limit affect term selection for jumbo borrowers?
Loans above the 2026 conforming limit of $806,500 (or $1,209,750 in high-cost areas, per FHFA.gov) are priced in the jumbo market, where term-spread dynamics differ from conforming. Jumbo lenders may price 15-year and 30-year terms differently than conforming lenders, and the spread may favor one term more than typical conforming assumptions suggest. Jumbo borrowers should request term-specific pricing from a broker who works across multiple jumbo investors.
Q7: I’m self-employed. Does that change which term I should choose?
Often yes. Self-employed borrowers using bank statement loans or other Non-QM programs frequently qualify on a different income calculation than W-2 borrowers. The qualifying income may be lower than actual cash flow, which means the higher 15-year payment can push DTI above program thresholds even when the borrower is financially strong. The 30-year term often provides the DTI headroom needed for qualification, with the option to make extra payments when income allows.
Q8: What is a NoTouch Credit Pull, and why does it matter for term analysis?
A NoTouch Credit Pull is a soft inquiry process that lets you explore your qualifying profile — credit score, DTI at both payment levels, program eligibility — without triggering a hard inquiry that affects your credit score. It matters for term analysis because you can model real scenarios with real numbers before committing to a loan application. Starting with a NoTouch Credit Pull means your exploration doesn’t cost you credit score points.
Q9: Should I choose a 15-year term if I’m planning to refinance in a few years anyway?
Generally no, unless the rate difference between terms produces enough savings to justify the higher payment over your planned hold period before the refinance. If you’re planning to refinance in three to five years, the 15-year’s interest savings will be minimal over that window, while the higher payment commitment is real. In most short-hold-before-refinance scenarios, the 30-year preserves cash flow without meaningful long-term cost.
Q10: When should I talk to a mortgage strategist instead of relying on a calculator?
When any of the following apply: your income is variable or self-employment-based; you’re considering a loan program with specific term constraints (USDA, DSCR, Non-QM); your loan amount is above the conforming limit; your retirement timeline is within 20 years; or you’re evaluating a refinance rather than a purchase. A calculator gives you numbers. A boutique mortgage strategist gives you a framework for interpreting those numbers against your actual financial life.
Implementation Steps
1. Work through the seven-question checklist above and identify any gaps — items you cannot answer with specific numbers.
2. For each gap, determine whether you need more information (program eligibility, credit profile, income documentation) or more analysis (break-even math, retirement projection).
3. Engage a mortgage strategist before finalizing your term decision, particularly if your situation involves any of the program-fit or income-complexity factors covered in this guide.
Pro Tips
The checklist isn’t a replacement for professional guidance — it’s a preparation tool. The more specifically you can answer each item before your first conversation with a mortgage strategist, the more productive that conversation will be. Come with your numbers, your timeline, and your specific questions. Leave with a term decision you can defend.
Putting It All Together: Your Term Decision Roadmap
The total cost difference between a 15-year and 30-year mortgage is real — often six figures over the life of the loan. In our worked scenario, the gap was approximately $302,580 in total interest. That number deserves your attention. But it doesn’t deserve to be the only number in the conversation.
Buyers who choose a 15-year because it sounds responsible without running the break-even math or evaluating their cash flow needs often end up house-rich and liquidity-poor. Buyers who default to a 30-year without considering the long-term cost sometimes leave significant wealth on the table. Neither outcome is inevitable — both are the result of making a term decision without a complete framework.
The seven strategies in this guide give you that framework. Start with the interest math, then question its assumptions. Calculate your break-even. Map your time horizon. Plan for the payment difference intentionally. Confirm your program fit. Evaluate the refinance option. And build your decision with a checklist, not a calculator alone.
If you’re ready to model both scenarios against your actual numbers — your loan amount, your program, your income structure, your timeline — reach out to Duane Buziak, NMLS #1110647, at Coast2Coast Mortgage LLC (NMLS #376205), licensed in Virginia, Florida, Tennessee, Georgia, and Washington, DC. Start with a NoTouch Credit Pull: no score impact, full picture. Call (804) 212-8663 or Talk to Duane today to begin your pre-qualification online.